A GUIDE TO GUAM

Extracted from: HELMSMAN — October 1990

Somehow the name “Guam” doesn’t have a ring to it. It’s missing the aura of tropical romance of Tahiti; the lure of strange cultures and customs sure to be lurking in deepest, darkest Kolombangara. The island’s slogan, “Where America’s Day Begins”, is calculated to attract Japanese tourists rather than yachties bent on escaping the excesses of civilsation and glow of the Golden Arches. Still, there does come a time when those excesses beckon — the soul hungers for mail from home, a movie that doesn’t show John Wayne as a teenager, and yes, an icy cold milkshake. The boat, too, hungers for paint, sail repairs, some bronze this and some stainless that. And while Guam may not conjure up visions of a tropical cruising paradise, there’s no question that it can supply those things we require of a civilization pit stop. Its location directly on the route from Australia and New Zealand to Japan makes it perfect for reprovisioning and resting up. It is also a good jumping off point for the Philippines or the multitude of islands that make up the Carolines.

But the island itself is not without attractions. There are in reality numerous white sandy beaches. Take a drive around the island and enjoy the relatively unspoiled southern and eastern shores. For those who enjoy hiking, there are waterfalls and caves in the interior. The War in the Pacific Museum in Asan is well worth a visit. And Guam even has a couple of good “cruising destinations” of its own.

Guam’s history resembles that of so many other Pacific islands. Early settlers probably came from Malaysia sometime before the birth of Christ. Their descendants today are known as Chamorros. The island was “discovered” by Magellan in 1521. He named it Ladrones (thieves) Island when his skiff was stolen. He proceeded to burn the offending village and kill a number of the inhabitants. The Catholic Church followed hot on his heels, and the usual decimation of the population from disease and various skirmishes resulted. In 1898, Guam’s governor surrendered to the United States Navy during the Spanish-American War — he had no gunpowder.

The U.S. ran the island as a military station until 1941 when the Japanese invaded. After a long, bloody struggle, the U.S. again took possession in 1944. Guam today remains a U.S. territory.

Most cruising yachts pass through Guam during the tradewind season, which runs roughly from December to May. During these months, east to northeasterly winds prevail. They can be quite strong, particularly from January to March, when winds of over 20 knots are the norm. Trying to sail east during these months is not a wise idea — far better to wait until the trades drop out in May or June and resort to the iron spinnaker. April and May are good months to head for Japan; those heading for Palau and the Philippines may want to leave a bit earlier as westerlies set in around Palau by mid-June.

On the island itself, the tradewind months are the most comfortable. The rest of the year is generally hot and humid. Summer (June-September) is the rainy season and brings a mixed bag of calms and screaming westerlies induced by distant typhoons.

Typhoon season is considered to run from late June through November. At least one or two of these storms brush the island each year. These are therefore not good months for arriving or departing Guam. It is important to note though that Guam’s two worst recorded typhoons hit on the edges of the season — Karen in November 1962 and Pamela in May 1976. Both had winds in excess of 150 knots. Note also that for the past two or three years, Guam has been hit with significant typhoons in January. No matter what time of year you are travelling in this area, it is wise to keep close tabs on weather systems. Guam does have safe all-weather anchorage.

Weather information can be obtained from U.S. Navy weather broadcasts at 2130 zulu and 0330 zulu on 14113.2 kHz and at 0930 zulu and 1530 zulu on 6506.4 kHz. Weather for this area is also usually covered on Rowdy’s Net, an amateur radio net at 0000 zulu on 14320 (weather at 0030). This net is a good place to obtain any desired current information on Guam as there’s generally someone Listening who is either on the island or has been there recently.

Apra Harbour is Guam’s port of entry. The entrance is located at 13°27’ North and 144° 37’ East. The entrance to this large harbour is well marked and lit. It is at least 340 metres wide and over 10 fathoms deep. There is generally a south setting current across the entrance and it is often strong enough to bedevil anyone trying to sail in. Otherwise, the entrance poses no problems for a yacht, although it can be messy with a large westerly swell running.

Despite the wide open entrance, entering this harbour at night for the first time is not advisable. There are a number of large unlit ship moorings scattered about the harbour. These are black in colour and do not show up well in low light until you’re on top of them.

Aside from these moorings, the only real danger area is Western Shoals. Don’t wander off to starboard and you’ll be right. On most charts and sketches, the Marianas Y C is shown on the northern side of the harbour near a group of fuel storage tanks. It has recently moved and is now located to the southeast behind Drydock Point. Guam’s commercial port is almost due east of the harbour mouth.

Guam is a U.S. Territory, thus all U.S. regulations apply. Anyone requiring a visa to enter the U.S. should obtain one before arriving in Guam. A Kiwi friend who arrived visa-less as crew on an American yacht had to fly to Saipan and spend two nights in a hotel there in order to get a visa — an expensive way to go, but it was that or catch a plane home.

Customs isn’t all that concerned about such things as liquor and cigarettes, but may well search your vessel if you are coming from an area such as Palau where drugs are plentiful.

If possible, contact the Harbour Master on VHF channels 12 or 16 as you enter Apra Harbour. He will contact Customs and Immigration for you and will tell you where to tie up. Those without VHF should proceed directly to the Commercial Port and tie up near the fishing boats. Have lots of fenders ready.

There is a fee for clearing-in on weekends and evenings. It seems to vary, but is in the range of $25 U.S. There are no other charges for clearing in or out.

Marianas Y C : As the club has recently moved, facilities are currently lacking. There is only a local hut on the site now, but a large new clubhouse is planned. The club has Friday night barbecues which are good for swapping stories with other cruisers and ex-cruisers who have settled on Guam.

Fees are $100 per month for transients. (All fees quoted are as of early 1990 — Such things seem to change frequently.) The approach to the club mooring area from the Commercial Port should be attempted only with good light. The area in front of the club is very shallow, so yachts must anchor quite a ways from shore. This unfortunately entails a long dinghy ride — or dinghy drag at low tide.

The club is also a long way from the commercial centre of the island, which runs from Agana to Dededo. There is no public transportation to the area, although buses do run from Agana to the USO. Cars are cheap on Guam: basic transportation can be had for under $500 U.S., and most cruisers staying a few months pick up a “Guam bomb”. Hitchhiking should be done only with extreme caution (please see comments on safety under Miscellaneous). Note that in typhoon conditions, this is not a safe anchorage.

Cabras Lagoon Marina : (aka The Swamp and Gerberville). This area is up at the end of Piti Channel; it offers good, all- weather protection. There are two mooring areas: the outer turning basin and the docks and inner channel. The latter is generally full of more or less permanent residents and charter boats.

The basin is therefore the best possibility for cruisers. The entrance via Piti Channel is narrow but poses no dangers. The basin itself is about 1.5 to 3 metres deep at low tide. The bottom is sand and mud. There are numerous bits of metal and old chain on the bottom; so be sure your keel won’t be bouncing on any of them. We lived here for the better part of a year and were often aground at low tide (“Mañana” draws about 1.7 metres). There is no charge for anchoring in this area; neither are there any facilities.

Like the yacht club, this area is not convenient to town. It is also next to two noisy, dirty power plants. However, it’s a typhoon hole and a good place to do extended boat work that requires calm waters. There is also a large, friendly live-aboard community here.

Agana Boat Basin : This is far more convenient to town — it is within walking distance of a shopping mall and supermarket; banks and a post office. It is however, noisy and at times the aroma from the sewage plant next door can be a bit overpowering. It can be difficult maneuvering in here at times due to current. It is not safe during typhoons or with strong west to northwesterlies. For whatever reason, few cruisers opt for the Boat Basin.

The entrance is narrow — anyone contemplating stopping here would be well advised to find temporary anchorage in Apra Harbour and reconnoiter the Boat Basin from land. The entrance becomes impassable with the strong westerlies which are fairly common in the summer months.

Cruisers anchor in the outer area. This may change if long-standing plans to remodel the Basin are ever put into effect.

Sumay Cove : This is the U.S. Navy’s marina and is in theory open to only those with U.S. military privileges. The marina has showers, laundry, and haulout space. It is a safe harbor in all but the most extreme typhoon conditions.

Harbour of Refuge : This harbour was designed as a storm shelter only and is not generally available during good weather. However an unattended yacht may be moored here while you are off- island.

Fees are as follows:

Annual registration: $100(U.S.)

Per day during storm conditions: $5(U.S.)

Per day during storm conditions without annual registration fee: $20(U.S.)

Per month if going off-island: $150(U.S.)

If the above marina comments seem negative, note that no cruiser has ever been unable to find mooring space. And most stay far longer than planned — transportation problems and the like always seem to work out somehow.

Currently there are no boatyards and thus no true haulout facilities on Guam. It is possible to hire a construction crane and haul out at Cabras Lagoon. Charges vary by the size of the crane; but figure on at least $100(U.S.) each way. It’s usually possible to cut costs by sharing the crane. Cranes can be hired from either Tenbata or Black Construction. Tenbata is closer, and as you’ll be charged for travel time, is cheaper. However, Tenbata probably cannot handle vessels of over 10 tons. We’ve used Tenbata and found the operators quite capable.

It is possible to remain out of the water for an extended period. Fees are roughly $75(U.S.) per month, although this varies.

For engine repairs, try Dave Prall at Dave’s Ocean Pacific Automotive in the Harmon Industrial Park — a capable mechanic fascinated with yachts and yachties. Coral Reef Marine Centre can do sail repairs and canvas work, but should be relied upon only for basics. There usually seems to be a cruiser in port who does such work: ask around. For electronics repair, try Marianas Electronics in Agana; also the tuna boat companies in the Commercial Port.

There are a number of machine shops on the island; one is located just off Marine Drive across from the Governor’s Office in Adelupe (large white building on a low hill). Others are in Harmon and Dededo.

Yacht Gear : Unfortunately, Guam suffers a bit in this area. Paint and basic hardware can usually be found — the first place to check is Coral Reef Marine Center in Tamuning. There are several hardware stores; the most well-stocked is usually Ace Hardware in Anigua. If you like searching for unexpected treasures, check out Rims in Barrigada. One week it’s foam for cockpit cushions, the next it’s heavy duty buckets with lids and it’s all cheap.

More specialized marine gear such as electronics are not usually stocked on the island, although Marianas Electronics does carry marine radios. The ace in the hole is that Guam is part of the U.S. postal system and just about anything can be ordered from numerous catalogue suppliers in the States, with no duty to pay. Allow two weeks for airmail; two months for sea mail.

Duty-free Liquor : Mid-Pac Liquor in Harmon — order a few days before you plan to clear out.

Diesel : By jerry jug from Piti Mobil station; delivery of larger amounts can be arranged at the Commercial Port. (Large amounts of water can be taken on here, too.)

Kerosene : Best price at PCC Hardware in East Agana.

Stove Alcohol : Sometimes difficult to locate; Ace and Gibson’s most likely prospects.

Propane : Mark’s Gas; Island Equipment — both in Tamuning.

Food : For immediate needs, Guam has a good range of restaurants offering everything from Big Macs to Mongolian Hot Pot. The Sizzler in Agana has a salad bar justly famous among cruisers. Cross the street to Swensons for dessert ice cream delights to satisfy all those equatorial food fantasies! For cheap meals close to Apra Harbour; try the Seaman’s Club and the USO — the latter also frequently shows free movies.

For long term requirements, there are several, large supermarkets including a Safeway, a name which will be familiar to those who have spent time in the western U.S. Prices are higher than in the States, but certainly less than for comparable products in other Pacific islands. Besides price becomes secondary when you can walk into one store and actually find everything on your list — a nearly- forgotten luxury!

Case lots can be purchased at a discount from Payless Wholesale. Cruz Market in Piti also sells by the case, and while their selection isn’t as great, it’s very convenient to Apra Harbour.

Unrefrigerated eggs can be purchased from Guam Godai in Agat. Call first. (Note that stateside eggs in the stores may be over a month old.)

There are two natural food stores which have limited stocks, but will special order for you; allow at least a month. Simply Foods is in Apra Heights; Nuts and Grains is in Tamuning (great frozen yogurt).

Have your mail sent to General Delivery only if you’re prepared to go to the main Post Office in Barrigada to collect it. (They hold mail 30 days). Best bets are to have mall sent care of The Marianas YC, P0 Box 2297, Agana, Guam 96910, or The Seaman’s Club, 695 Cabras Highway, Piti, Guam 969. In either case, write the club to advise of approximate arrival date and any delays.

Many cruisers stop in Guam planning to stay a couple of weeks and windup staying a couple of years. For Americans, it’s an ideal place to replenish the cruising kitty. Guam’s economy, fuelled by Japanese tourism and the U.S. military, is booming. Those not able to work legally in the U.S. will have a tougher time; recently revised laws impose heavy fines on employers hiring illegal workers. Still, there always seems to be plenty ofwork for anyone handy around boats. Ask around the yacht club or Cabras Lagoon.

First, a warning. While Guam is not Port Moresby, neither is it Japan. Crime is high. Women should be particularly careful and should never walk alone at night. Hitchhiking is not wise even for men. Be aware that there is some resentment of Caucasians — haoles — on Guam. Don’t let this keep you away from the island — just be careful and heed the warnings of resident live-aboards.

On a more positive note, while dinghies and outboards have been known to disappear, there is little or no theft from yachts. We rarely locked Mañana. There are consulates for the Philippines and Japan in Tamuning plus liaison offices for the Federated States of Micronesia and Belau (Palau). Note that cruising permits are necessary for both the FSM and Belau. For land-based info the best source (although a bit heavy on the politics) is the Micronesia Handbook, by David Stanley (Moon Publications).

So what do you do while you’re waiting for the new sat-nay to arrive or the trades to ease? Guam’s best escape spot is Cetti Bay, about five miles south of the Apra Harbour entrance. No McDonalds, no houses, no people. Quiet and generally calm during the tradewind season. Coral extends out from the sides of the bay and isn’t always clearly visible — when entering keep a bit to starboard of the centre of the bay. The head of the bay is shallow and has a fair number of coral heads, so it’s best to anchor in the middle, again staying a bit to starboard.

Another cruising destination is Cocos Lagoon, very picture-postcard. Due to the shallowness of the bay and the abundance of coral, local advice should be sought. Scuba diving is highly popular on Guam. Lots of dive shops; the closest to Apra Harbour is a branch of Coral Reef Marine Centre located in Piti a bit past the USO. Guam is a good place to get certified as instruction fees are low.

As mentioned earlier, there are a number of waterfalls and caves on the island. Check with the Guam Visitors Bureau in Tumon for maps. The USO organizes walks and hikes known as “Boonie Stomps”. If you’re into more strenuous exercise, Guam has an active Hash House Harriers group.

Otherwise, soak up the sun and the ice cream and enjoy!