Vincent Sahi (Fuji 35 Tobermory ) needed to remove his mizzen mast on his boat. Vincent asked me to describe how I had removed and then reinstalled my mizzen when I replaced the internal wiring and replaced all of the shrouds on it. Hopefully it helps in the event you need to remove your mizzen for some reason.

Actually, the mizzen is relatively easy to lower. A friend of mine and I were able to remove and reinstall mine. With just the two off us, we were able to lower it but if we had had 2 additional helpers it would have been less traumatic. I am going to assume that your boat is rigged the same as mine in this description. My boat has six shrouds ( 3 per side) on the mizzen mast. It does not have what I would call a true backstay, just the shrouds which come down on each side. In fact, one of my planned additions is to install a running backstay to the mizzen which I would tie off to one of the docking cleats. The running backstay will provide additional support when I have both the Mizzen sail and the mizzen staysail up at the same time. I'm not sure if the running backstay is required and Alden does not show one on the sail plan but it wouldn't hurt anything. My boat also has a triadic stay which goes from the top of the mizzen mast to the top of the main mast. Once you read thru this, if you have additional questions then please feel free to contact me.

To unstep the mizzen, this is the procedure I used;

1. I backed my boat into its slip so I could have the dock at it's stern to give me a working area outside of the boat. If you need to do this while the boat is in a cradle on dry land then it is a little more difficult, but can still be done by the same general method.
2. Remove you steering wheel. You will need the room to work in the cockpit when you lower the mizzen. You might also want to remove the compass from the binnacle to protect it but I didn't do it on my boat. Of course you also want to remove the sail and mizzen boom. It you have radar you will want to remove the scanner from the mast to lighten the mast.. Go into the engine compartment and make sure that any of the wires which go up the mizzen mast are disconnected. I ended up having to cut the end off of my VHF antenna cable in the boat to allow it to be removed. I then soldered a new end back on when I reinstalled the mast. If you are comfortable with adding the VHF connector and have a good soldering gun, 150 watt or better, then this is easy. But - Be careful with the VHF cable when putting the plug back on because a short between the inner wire and the co-axial sheathing can blow out the VHF radio. Just pay attention to detail when redoing the cable. If you are lucky, then whoever installed your VHF may have cut large enough holes in all of the interior bulkheads the cable goes thru to allow it to be pulled without cutting. My radar cable could not be pulled from inside the boat so I disconnected it up at the radome and tied a string to the end. When I dropped the mast, I pulled the radar cable out of the mast and left the tracer string in place to pull the radar cable back into the mast when I restepped the mast.
3. Go up the main mast and pull the pin holding the triadic stay to the main mast. Make sure and tie a length of 3/8" line to the end of the triadic stay to lower it. You don't want to just let it go where it might hit your radar dome or one of your helpers. Also, you will need this line to pull the triadic stay back up when you re-step the mizzen.
4. You will now need 3 lengths of ropes, each 25 foot long or better, to tie to the mizzen mast at the spreaders bars. Loop these ropes around and above and below the spreader so they will not slip either up or down the mast.
5. Attach the main sail halyard from the main mast to one of these ropes. You will be using the main halyard to pull the mizzen mast up and then to slowly lower it down. The other 2 ropes will be used to steady the mast from side to side as you lower it down and raise it up. They will keep it from slipping sideways.
6. What you want to do is to use the main halyard to apply a forward and up ward lift to the mizzen. Use the other two ropes to provide a rearward and sideways force. Remove the clevis pins from the shrouds where they attach to the chain plates to loosen the shrouds. If you need to, you can back of the turnbuckles by 1 or 2 turns on each shroud to provide some slack in the shroud for easier removal of the clevis pin.
7. At this point the mizzen mast will be held up only by the three ropes you attached at the spreaders. (Are you getting a knot in your stomach yet. :-) because I sure had one when I was at this stage!!!!)
8. Start slacking off on the main halyard and pull the top of the mizzen back. The base of the mizzen, at least on my boat, sits on a cast mast step with a 1/2" lip inside of the mast. There is also a piece of 3/4" pipe screwed into the center of the mast step which then goes up into the mast about 6". The wires for my radar, VHF, Loran and anchor light all come up thru this pipe ( it's a tight fit for all these wires!!!)
9. With the mast now loose, you need to lift the mast straight up and off of the mast step. The mast only weighs about 100 to 125 lbs so you may be able to do this by grabbing it by the winch or cleats on the mast for the mizzen halyards. What I did was to use the main halyard to provide an additional uplift on the mast to help me lift it off the step. I lifted the mast up and moved its base over about a foot and set it down on an old scrap piece of styrofoam but you could also use an old lifejacket. You want to protect the bottom of the mast and the wires which come out of it.
10. Now lower the mast by allowing its top to go aft. Have someone stay in the cockpit to keep the bottom from slipping and have 2 other people on each rope which comes down to stabilize the mast. Once the mast is down to about a 45 degree angle the person in the cockpit can scoot the base of the mast forward until it contacts the front of the cockpit. Continue lowering the mast. At some point the person in the cockpit will need to pickup the base of the mast and move it up to the top of the cabin, otherwise these top of the mast will not be able to be fully lowered.. The stern pulpit will contact/support the mast at about the spreader level. Once the mast is down flat, you can pick it up and carry it forward on the cabin top for storage.
11. Since you have the mast down at this point you will want to closely examine all of the swages on the shrouds for cracks and run a tissue paper or old silk tie along each wire to look for broken strands. I lowered my mast because I needed to the replace the shrouds due to broken strands.
12. Re-stepping the mast is essentially the reverse of lowering it.
13. Once you reinstall the mizzen you will want to tun the rig per the instructions located in Rig Tuning