Don Linowski's Tenacious

Bill, Yes, Santa Cruise Island, one of the Channel Islands off Santa Barbara. Nice place. Yes the water was very deep, over a hundred feet as I recall. We were parked off this cave that some people row their dinghy's into. I found that a little spooky because an unexpected wave can slap you up against the ceiling of the cave. I chickened out on the cave entry.

To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Ports

Bill, I installed that port, it's a great improvement. Chris Toughill wants to install two round ports. That would be nice. By the way does my e-mail ever come with weird colored backgrounds or a bunch of HTML crap all over the place? It doesn't show as I compose letters but my friend with an old Mac has gotten stuff like that from me. DL "Tenacious" From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 6:38 AM To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Ports

Bill, I installed that port, it's a great improvement. Chris Toughill wants to install two round ports. That would be nice. By the way does my e-mail ever come with weird colored backgrounds or a bunch of HTML crap all over the place? It doesn't show as I compose letters but my friend with an old Mac has gotten stuff like that from me. DL "Tenacious" From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 11:39 AM To: 'Don' Subject: RE: Novice

Don - Saw the problem with the first files but hadn't sent back a message to you. Thanks for the latest - The picture came through great. As a matter of fact, I notice that you have something that I've been thinking about doing on Swallow - Put a port in the front part of the cabin over the V-berth. I had thought about doing that to allow be to see the foredeck from inside of the cabin. Did you put in yours or was it already there. Bill -----Original Message----- From: Don [mailto:don@marinepages.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 4:18 AM To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Novice

Bill, I am a total novice at sending photos, and when I tried to send a scanned image on file it kept being really huge in the e-mail, no matter how many times I resized it with Image Composer. Then I just scanned it to e-mail and sent it. when I checked my result I found a picture of the tip of the mast, so now I will send you the large picture and you may be able to deal with it. That's my ex in the photo. Meanwhile I have some software to learn. DL From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 4:18 AM To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Novice

From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 7:01 PM To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Tenacious

Bill, Well, when I received my new sails from Ullman the main had about six holes in it the size of a match head. The cloth looked like it had been chaifed at a fold, but no one could figure out it happened since it had been packed meticulasly. The holes were spread the entire length of the sail like when you cut a paper snow flake then unfold it. Ullman was very embarassed and built me a new sail. I had to wait another month, but hey, I had waited years for the new sail anyway. Your estimate of the glass job sounds about right to me. There may be a lot of grinding involved which creates a huge mess. I have this terrific grinder now that I didn't have when I did my glass work. This is not a little one handed vibrator now, it's a side grinder. It's made by Porter Cable, is random orbit, variable speed, turns a 6" velcro backed sanding disk, and hooks with a hose directly to a shop vac. The shop vac really keeps the dust down, and a major fiberglass job creates mega mess. (you do have the EPA in Texas don't you?) I don't have access to the model number right now because it's out on a job, but I could get it for you if you are interested. It's an ultra tool for that kind of work. Also I can't over emphasize how important it is to get to any grinding within a day or two after the epoxy kicks. If you wait a couple of weeks to grind, that West gets really tough, and just laughs at 60 grit. Here is a picture of Tenacious taken off Santa Cruise Island California. DL Tenacious From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 7:01 PM To: Bill Ashenhart Subject: Tenacious

Bill, Well, when I received my new sails from Ullman the main had about six holes in it the size of a match head. The cloth looked like it had been chaifed at a fold, but no one could figure out it happened since it had been packed meticulasly. The holes were spread the entire length of the sail like when you cut a paper snow flake then unfold it. Ullman was very embarassed and built me a new sail. I had to wait another month, but hey, I had waited years for the new sail anyway. Your estimate of the glass job sounds about right to me. There may be a lot of grinding involved which creates a huge mess. I have this terrific grinder now that I didn't have when I did my glass work. This is not a little one handed vibrator now, it's a side grinder. It's made by Porter Cable, is random orbit, variable speed, turns a 6" velcro backed sanding disk, and hooks with a hose directly to a shop vac. The shop vac really keeps the dust down, and a major fiberglass job creates mega mess. (you do have the EPA in Texas don't you?) I don't have access to the model number right now because it's out on a job, but I could get it for you if you are interested. It's an ultra tool for that kind of work. Also I can't over emphasize how important it is to get to any grinding within a day or two after the epoxy kicks. If you wait a couple of weeks to grind, that West gets really tough, and just laughs at 60 grit. Here is a picture of Tenacious taken off Santa Cruise Island California. DL Tenacious From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 3:20 PM To: 'Don' Subject: sail problems

I hadn't heard about the sail problem. What types of holes were they. Did they look like burns, punctures or what?

Your thoughts on the $15,000 were just like mine. The average yard rate here is $50/ hr , so by my calculations that worked out to 300 man hours or person hours ( to be politically correct). I felt almost 4 weeks for two people was a little more than the job truly needed. . I can get independent workmen here for about $25/hr also. I actually think it should take about 2 to 4 days to lay 3 layers of glass ( mat/cloth/mat top coat) and then apply a smoothing/ fairing surface to the point where I can paint and apply my non-skid surface. Even if I call it 5 days, or 40 hours and then double the hours to 80 hours for a bad estimate, at $25/hr this works out to only $2,000. I had expected and was willing to pay around $3,000. I have already purchased all of the cloth and resin. I needed labor only. Again, what I was requesting was simply the laying of the glass. The deck is bare are smooth. The glass need to be faired into the cabin trunk but that is all. I was going to do my own painting and install the toerails and hardware. I will get the deck finished over the next 2-3 months, either by myself or by hiring it out. Oh well, I am thinking about borrowing a buddies Downeast 32 and going for a 3-4 day trip just to relax and remind myself why I am working on my boat. Of course, I should probably take those 3-4 days and apply them to the boat instead.

By the way - Do you have any pictures of either you or "Tenacious". When I redo the web page I thought I would place some additional photos up there.

'May you have fair winds with just a few gusts to keep life exciting'

Thanks,

Bill Ashenhart S&B Engineers & Constructors, LTD 3535 Sage Road Houston, Texas 77056 Voice : (713) 845 - 5421 Fax : (713) 640-8752

-----Original Message----- From: Don [mailto:don@marinepages.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:34 AM To: Ashenhart, Bill Subject: Re: Careening

Bill,

I have had some responses from Fuji owners with theoretical comments, all dissuading me from attempting the careen. The best was from Chris Toughill with "Polar Wind" in florida, who feels that because of the relatively narrow beam, low freeboard and large cockpit, the cockpit may fill before she floated. And there is that instrument panel and all those hatches to consider. I think that is sound reasoning. Your idea of 4x4 bracing is a good one. I've used home made shoring on land and know how it's done. The fact that the substrate on the beach I would be usung may have soft spots in just the wrong place puts the vessel at risk of falling over, a catastrophy worse than sinking, especially if I was in the way at the time. The way it is done on shore is to have two beams under the boat, port to starboard, (athwartships) so that the 4x4's sit on them and are cross braced back down to the beam to keep them from slipping. In this situation I couldn't get the beams under the boat. I have located a "steep to" beach in Tomales Bay ( deep water up to a steep beach) which would enable me to keep the keel on the downward side of the slope. This would help. But before I do anything, I am going to make sure I know what I'm getting into. I keep waiting for the letter from the person who has actually done it, eather on purpose or inadvertantly, and tells me what's what. Like, "Hey it's no big deal, she just bounces right up". I plan to write the Alden Company and get their opinion. Any information I get on the subject I will pass alone to the rest of the Fuji owners.

Sounds like you are making reasonable progress on your project, especially considering how difficult it is to muster the energy for that kind of job and working full time. There is no question that fiberglassing is a bitch, but 15 grand sounds very high even if that included laying the deck. For just the glass it's robbery. If you can find a guy that knows epoxy and works for a reasonable rate that might be a good thing. Even at $25 an hour, which is an okay rate around here, a months work is only $4,000. I don't mean "only" like that's chump change or anything, but it's a far cry from $15,000.

I shook down the new Ullman sails this last week and they fit really fine. I caught some huge salmon also which was iceing on the cake. I think I told you about the disaster of the first main I received with a bunch of holes in it. It was a mystery to everyone how they got there but Ullman made good and built me a new sail. I wish I could afford new rigging this year as the original stuff is still what is holding up the masts, but I am going through a career change and money is really tight. And I also need new cushions.

A hole in the water to dump money into is an understatement. A Black Hole is more like it. But we do love them so! Bye for now.

Don Linowski

From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:34 AM To: Ashenhart, Bill Subject: Re: Careening

Bill,

A hole in the water to dump money into is an understatement. A Black Hole is more like it. But we do love them so! Bye for now.

Don Linowski

"Tenacious" From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 10:42 AM To: 'Don Linowski' Subject: Careening

Don - Have you had any responses to careening "Tenacious" . You must have one heck of a tidal range to be able to careen. Just a thought, if you can't lay her down safely, how about putting some 4"x4" braces for her to lean against in an upright position?

I haven't put down the fiberglass yet. I have finished replacing ALL of the bad deck plywood. I ended up replacing the entire port side, all of the foredeck and then a small area on the starboard side next to the cockpit. I am now fairing in the joints. I coated the raw wood with a single brushed on layer of epoxy just to keep the plywood dry. I also have been keeping tarps over most of the area. I am trying to convince myself that it would be easier to just hire someone to do the actual laying of the glass. The first yard I went to gave me a quote of $15,000 JUST TO LAY THE GLASS AND GET THE DECK TO A POINT WHERE I COULD PAINT IT!!!!!!!!! I informed them politely that for that kind of money, I could afford to take off from work for a couple of months and work on the boat full time. Actually, that yard is one of the one that caters to the rich guys around here , but since it was only 500 feet from my boat I though I would check them out. I have phone numbers for some other independents so I will be calling them this week.

I did get an air conditioner installed so at least I can go down and work in the summer heat without dying from a heat stroke. I did it the cheap way by buying a 13,500 BTU rooftop RV unit and installing it in the forward hatch. It isn't all that pretty but then again it isn't all that bad either. It only cost me $500 total including miscellaneous mounting hardware. If I decide to take off and go offshore then it will only take me about 5 to 10 minutes to remove it and put the hatch cover back in place.

I actually feel as though I have the hard part behind me at this point and I can see where in a couple of months I may actually be finished with this phase. My biggest difficulty has been in simply finding time to do the work. I am busy at my regular day job and haven't been able to take off much for boat work. Anyway, as soon as I get the new deck finished, my wife wants to go to work on the interior and have new cushions made.

I need to get back to work so I had better close this now.

Bill Ashenhart S&B Engineers & Constructors, LTD 3535 Sage Road Houston, Texas 77056 Voice : (713) 845 - 5421 Fax : (713) 640-8752

From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 11:21 AM To: 'Don'; Bob Hunt; Doug & Kay Horan; Frank Amling; Mike Barton; Ashenhart, Bill; Cindy & Brad Alpers; David Ford; Jack, Bonnie,; John H Koerner; Seiji Yamada; Terry & Sandy Sargent; Tom & Medy Fowler; Vernon & Mary Jo Ireland; 'Toughill, Cris'; 'Klebers, Dick'; 'DuWayne Olds'; 'Pietsch, Erik'; 'Henry Kirk'; 'Jack David'; 'JIM'; 'Jim Kelley'; 'Karen Reneau'; Mike Dallas; Sam Boyle; 'Sahi, Vincent' Subject: RE: Will She Float?

Greetings all - I have not been timely in keeping the contact web page up to date. I will be working on the entire site in the near future. (Famous last words - Near future). Any way, I am forwarding Don's message to some of the other Fuji owners I've come across including you guys with the big Fuji's (Fuji 45). FYI - Karen Reneau Lyon & her husband Jeff had an article in the June issue if Sailing magazine about a trip in their Fuji to Bimini Island. Terry Sargent has an article in the current Ocean Navigator regarding how he built a rain proof wind scoop for his Fuji 32. -----Original Message----- From: Don [mailto:don@marinepages.com] Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 5:20 PM To: Bob Hunt; Doug & Kay Horan; Frank Amling; Mike Barton; Bill Ashenhart; Cindy & Brad Alpers; David Ford; Jack, Bonnie,; John H Koerner; Seiji Yamada; Terry & Sandy Sargent; Tom & Medy Fowler; Vernon & Mary Jo Ireland Subject: Will She Float?

Hello, My name is Don Linowski and I own the Fuji 35 # 60. I got all of your e-mail addresses from Bill Ashenhart's terrific web page. I hope you don't mind me sending you all the same letter but I have a very important question. Where I keep "Tenacious" in Bodega Bay, Sonoma County, CA , there is a nice place to go on the hard and careen. The question is, if I try this with my Fuji 35, what problems might I encounter? She would be laying totally over on a flat beach on hard mud. Would she re-float without filling and sinking? (The main question) Problems with the Perkins diesel? Fuel tanks? Should I take as much excess weight out before hand? ( drain water tanks, remove excess anchors and chain?) Or is it just no big deal? I would hate to loose her saving a haulout fee, but I also hate paying the local yard pirate his exorbitant fees. Any information anyone can give me on actual experience , would be greatly appreciated. I have owned "Tenacious" for over 10 years, love the boat and have been up and down the California coast several times. When the cruising kitty has more jingle I hope to spend some time in southern waters. I have made extensive upgrades , improvements, repairs and the like, and am an experienced boat carpenter. If anyone wants to talk Fuji drop me a line. My e-mail address is Don@MarinePages.com Don Linowski "Tenacious" From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 5:20 PM To: Bob Hunt; Doug & Kay Horan; Frank Amling; Mike Barton; Bill Ashenhart; Cindy & Brad Alpers; David Ford; Jack, Bonnie,; John H Koerner; Seiji Yamada; Terry & Sandy Sargent; Tom & Medy Fowler; Vernon & Mary Jo Ireland Subject: Will She Float?

Bill, Hi, how's it going? I have my new Ullman sails and they look real nice. Hope to try them out this weekend. I am compiling a Fuji mailing group from the information on your site, so I can ask questions en mass. I noticed that you still have my old Aldenmon address posted on your site. When you get the chance update to my current address: Don@MarinePages.com Thank you. Fill me in on your latest Fuji exploits. You will get my question in my mass mailing. Happy epoxy-ing. (Is that an oxymoron?) Don Linowski From: Don [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:13 AM To: Ashenhart, Bill

Bill, Sounds like you are doing it right! How are you planing to finish off the deck, non-skid? I've done a lot of non-skid decks with paint and silica sand. I lay down some paint and dump sand on top. When it dries I sweep off the loose stuff and paint over. I think that produces a more uniform job than the stuff you mix into the paint. And it really holds up. I just downloaded IE5 and brought up your site with the link from your mail. It worked really well. In the past I have had trouble with Tripod not letting me on to the site. When that happens I feel like I've lost an old friend. Hang tough. Don From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 11:19 AM To: 'Marinepages' Subject: I'd rather be sailing!!!!

Don I will be installing the new foredeck this weekend. I removed the old one and used it as a template to cut the new foredeck and predrilled all of the mounting bolt holes. I have wrapped the edges with epoxy / glass and it is now ready to be glued and screwed down. I figure between 3M5200 as adhesive&bedding, replacing all the bolts and overlapping fiberglass tape from the deck onto the hull , then I should end up with a solid joint. The side deck on the port side is soft at two of the chain plates plus all along the hull to deck joint so it will be replaced for sure. On the starboard side, I pulled up the cracked and delaminated fiberglass but by some miracle the plywood appears to be good. I think I will leave the port side deck alone. I will saturate the surface with Smiths CPES just in case and then lay new glass on top of the old plywood deck. A previous owner had already replaced all of the ports with opening units. The aluminum frames are thru bolted so I am tempted to go thru and remove each port frame to check the status of the wood around the opening. I think I will wait until I complete the deck before starting that project though. You mentioned not being able to get to my web site using IE4.

My web page is at http://members.tripod.com/~Bill_Ashenhart/index.html

If you type in the address, there is an underscore '_' in my name. Type in the address as ~Bill_Ashenhart

-----Original Message----- From: Marinepages [mailto:don@marinepages.com] Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 3:15 AM To: Bill&Sue Ashenhart Subject:

Bill, Well you seem to know all my tricks. I would discourage you from using polyester resin. It does not stick well to the Luan plywood that Fuji used. That is what caused all these problems in the first place. That and the fact that they didn't pay attention to bedding the hardware and trim in properly. I know that you are replacing some of the deck and that may not be Luan ply, but you may be glassing over some of the old stuff. Also remember this: Epoxy sticks to poly but poly does not stick to epoxy. I guess you have made the decision already to use epoxy, but tell those poly lovers why! I knew that it would take some time to do my woodwork before I got to the glass work, so I sealed the new woodwork with epoxy so it would not be damaged by the eliminates. As you get to the cabin, remember I found rot around every fixed port. Replacing them with opening ports has improved the comfort level tremendously. Don Linowski From: Marinepages [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 3:15 AM To: Bill&Sue Ashenhart

Bill, Well you seem to know all my tricks. I would discourage you from using polyester resin. It does not stick well to the Luan plywood that Fuji used. That is what caused all these problems in the first place. That and the fact that they didn't pay attention to bedding the hardware and trim in properly. I know that you are replacing some of the deck and that may not be Luan ply, but you may be glassing over some of the old stuff. Also remember this: Epoxy sticks to poly but poly does not stick to epoxy. I guess you have made the decision already to use epoxy, but tell those poly lovers why! I knew that it would take some time to do my woodwork before I got to the glass work, so I sealed the new woodwork with epoxy so it would not be damaged by the eliminates. As you get to the cabin, remember I found rot around every fixed port. Replacing them with opening ports has improved the comfort level tremendously. Don Linowski From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 5:24 PM To: 'Don Linowski' Subject: RE: Gittin' down on some funky boat work!

Hi Don - I got your email about the Tucson Fuji. I had seen that same add on Latitude 38's web site. Sounds like a heck of a deal at $19,000 although it makes me wonder if it also has some deck / bulkhead problems for that price. I haven't done much on the WEB page for the past couple of months . I need to get out there and update it. I have Vaitses book on fiberglass repair. I found it at a used book store about 6 month ago for $5. Hardcover version with jacket cover. Heck of a deal. I have a couple of people trying to convince me to use regular polyester resin at $12 / gallon but I am going to stick with the West epoxy. The cost saving compared to the amount of work I am performing just doesn't make sense to me. I have some of the Smiths CPES epoxy. I used it on the bulkhead rebuild. Good Stuff. I'm not too worried about adding weight to the deck. I figure that at the most an additional layer of glass and a couple of gallons of epoxy may add 30 to 40 pounds. This may change the CG slightly but I bet that putting the dinghy on the cabin top upside down may have a greater effect. Well - Time to go home. Thanks Bill -----Original Message----- From: Marinepages [mailto:don@marinepages.com] Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 9:06 AM To: Bill&Sue Ashenhart Subject: Gittin' down on some funky boat work!

Bill, Did you get my e-mail on the '74 Fuji in Tucson? Or perhaps I didn't make it clear that was me with a new e-mail address. I have given AOL the boot. My new address is : Don@MarinePages.com Congratulations on making the commitment to really go for it.You are even doing a step more than I did by removing the toe rail. It always bothered me that I only glassed up to the toe rail instead of underneath it. As for the weight of the cloth, it was so long ago I can't remember, and have no notes. I have some left from the job and I could send you a sample if you like. I was following the advice of these guys in Newport Beach Ca. named Boatbuilders who were also selling me the product. I used a layer of mate and a layer of glass wetted at the same time by the epoxy. I remember being fearful at the time I had gone too heavy and added too much weight to the boat. For the decks and cabin I used 7 gal. of epoxy. I became remorseful I had not done more research on the question of cloth weight. The Fuji is not known for being "stiff" under sail, that is they tip easy, and I often wonder if I have increased that tendency by not paying enough attention to such details. Epoxy is so strong I bet doing just the cloth layer would have been fine. When such fears well up, I always fall back on the position that I have added great strength to the decks and cabin trunk. And to date, after 10 years, have found no failures in my work. West System has books and videos that were not available when I did my work. Also, there is a terrific book: The Fiberglass Boat Repair Book by Allan H. Vaitses, International Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine. Consider buying at least a gal. container at one time and you may say some money. And it may be self evident, but consider when mixing large quantities for a deck coat, to forget it with those little pumps and get some plastic measuring cups labeled in oz. It will save you a bunch of time. Also there are some terrific epoxy products distributed by Bels/Smith Inc. P.O. Box 20901 Richmond, CA 94803 (510) 222-1520 For instance they make a very thin penetrating epoxy that I have used with great success. I feel doing a penetrating coat on the wood before the glass is laid is a good strategy. Some of the folks around my dock use Smith's products to seal their teak. It is supposed to last 5 years without refinishing, which I find hard to swallow. But you may want to check them out as a source. Keep me posted on your progress. Sincerely, Don Linowski From: Marinepages [don@marinepages.com] Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 9:06 AM To: Bill&Sue Ashenhart Subject: Gittin' down on some funky boat work!

Bill, Did you get my e-mail on the '74 Fuji in Tucson? Or perhaps I didn't make it clear that was me with a new e-mail address. I have given AOL the boot. My new address is : Don@MarinePages.com Congratulations on making the commitment to really go for it.You are even doing a step more than I did by removing the toe rail. It always bothered me that I only glassed up to the toe rail instead of underneath it. As for the weight of the cloth, it was so long ago I can't remember, and have no notes. I have some left from the job and I could send you a sample if you like. I was following the advice of these guys in Newport Beach Ca. named Boatbuilders who were also selling me the product. I used a layer of mate and a layer of glass wetted at the same time by the epoxy. I remember being fearful at the time I had gone too heavy and added too much weight to the boat. For the decks and cabin I used 7 gal. of epoxy. I became remorseful I had not done more research on the question of cloth weight. The Fuji is not known for being "stiff" under sail, that is they tip easy, and I often wonder if I have increased that tendency by not paying enough attention to such details. Epoxy is so strong I bet doing just the cloth layer would have been fine. When such fears well up, I always fall back on the position that I have added great strength to the decks and cabin trunk. And to date, after 10 years, have found no failures in my work. West System has books and videos that were not available when I did my work. Also, there is a terrific book: The Fiberglass Boat Repair Book by Allan H. Vaitses, International Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine. Consider buying at least a gal. container at one time and you may say some money. And it may be self evident, but consider when mixing large quantities for a deck coat, to forget it with those little pumps and get some plastic measuring cups labeled in oz. It will save you a bunch of time. Also there are some terrific epoxy products distributed by Bels/Smith Inc. P.O. Box 20901 Richmond, CA 94803 (510) 222-1520 For instance they make a very thin penetrating epoxy that I have used with great success. I feel doing a penetrating coat on the wood before the glass is laid is a good strategy. Some of the folks around my dock use Smith's products to seal their teak. It is supposed to last 5 years without refinishing, which I find hard to swallow. But you may want to check them out as a source. Keep me posted on your progress. Sincerely, Don Linowski From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 5:21 PM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: Rebuilding the deck.

Don - Went down to the boat on Friday to start fixing the MINOR cracks in the fiberglass on the foredeck. First place I worked on was a small one next to the cleat on the starboard side. I opened it up and decided the wood was bad underneath so I removed a little more to find the extent of damage. The net effect was that by Saturday afternoon I had ended up removing the bowsprit and all hardware on the foredeck. The toe rails are removed back to where they are spliced at the cockpit and the foredeck and side decks are being removed. I will be redecking the boat this coming weekend. Fiberglassing will start as soon as the plywood is down. At least this will give me a chance to inspect the chainplates. I decided that to do the foredeck and side decks correctly it was easier to just completely remove everything that was in the way. I was really surprised by how easily it all came of. Of course it is usually easier to tear things apart then it is to put them together. I am sticking with the deck for now but I have a strong suspicion that I will end up redoing the cabin also. Oh well, At least when I finish I will feel secure in her strength.

Oh - Then guy at west marine is making me an offer of $41 / gal for the West epoxy. It is normally about $63 so this sound pretty good. He also told me where to go here in Houston to get the best deal on E cloth & S cloth .

How many layer and what weight of Mat/cloth do you recommend?

Bill Ashenhart S&B Engineers & Constructors, LTD 3535 Sage Road Houston, Texas 77056 Voice : (713) 845 - 5421 Fax : (713) 640-8752

From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 1:44 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Hi Bill, Ran across this in the April issue of Latitude 38, a west coat magazine:35-ft FUJI KETCH, 1974. PROJECT BOAT. Mexico veteran. Classic fiberglass bluewater cruiser with teak interior, full keel, wooden masts, wheel steering with worm drive, diesel, sails, dodger, $19,000/offer. Must sell. Located Tucson, AZ (where's the ocean?) 520-575-8469.

Another sister ship? Thought you may want to pass it alone on the web site. Get my new sails soon, OH BOY. I can get your web site up on my AOL browser with a little fuss, after battling off the Tripod ads for a while, but I can't bring it up on my Internet Explorer browser. I am going to give AOL the boot soon, do you have any tips on how to reach your site with the IE? My new e-mail address is: Don@marinepages.com I hope to have my web site up soon. How's things with the old lady? (boat I mean)

Don Linowski

From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 5:21 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Ullman Sails

Bill, Yes, I have ordered a new main and mizzen from Ullman. They are made overseas, Hong Kong I think, perhaps Taiwan. I was a little put off by that, but after asking around, they have a very good reputation for offshore cruising sails. They use American made Bainbridge cloth, and three rows of "triple stitch" on the seams. A very knowledgeable fellow from Sausalito, Jim Leech, drove over an hour to Bodega Bay to do the measurements. Ullman also comes highly recommended from my friend Chris Frost, owner of Downwind Marine of San Diego, Ca. Here are both web sites: <A HREF="http://www.downwindmarine.com/home.html">Downwind Marine: The Cruisers Chandlery</A> <A HREF="http://www.ullmansails.com/index.html">Ullman Sails International</A> . Jim said he will also come for a sail with me after the sails are bent on, to make sure the fit is to my liking. Coast: Main, $1235 in 8 oz.; mizzen, $533 in 7.5 oz. cloth. I had the mizzen built heavily because I like to use it at anchor in a blow. It steadies out the ride. I have also used the mizzen and working jib with the main down while reaching a blow. The vessel balances quite well with this rig in 35k of wind. The quote from Ullman was actually a few dollars cheaper than a quote from West Marine, (but you don't have to tell them that). And of course west marine won't come to the boat. I don't see an Ullman in Texas, but if they have a quality product it may be worth doing your own measurements. It's not hard if you know your sailmakers parameters. I should have the new sails in a month or so, and I'll let you know how I like them. I see by your photos you have a mizzen staysail. Does it get used much? It looks very nice for light airs in a reach. Where does it sheet to? I have an old spinnaker that is in good shape because it never gets out of the bag. I'm having it re-cut to an asymmetrical which is not as good directly down wind but does not require a pole and attending topping lift and downhaul. Here's wishing dry weather for your project.

Bye for now,

Don

From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 8:09 AM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: RE: Thanks-Big Time!

Don - Sorry it took so long to get to you. I had the copy made and then it set in my brief case for about a week. When you mentioned that you had ordered some sails then it reminded me that I needed to put it in an envelope and mail it out to you. The sail plan came in my info when I bought the boat. It was in a book along with all of the other spec sheets from Fuji. I assumed that Fuji placed a copy in the info when they sold the boat but it may have come from someplace else. What I have is an original blueline which is getting old and yellowed at the edges so based on my experience with blueline drawings ( draftsman and then engineer) it is probably of the same age. I called Alden on Boston and inquired about getting copies of other plans for the FUJI 35 design. They told me that copies are $50 per sheet. I figure that some day when I am on a business trip to Boston I will go by their offices and see what all they have. I will then pickup other plans and sections if they provide any relevant information.

By the way, you mentioned you ordered new sails from Ullman. Being nosey, how much? Did they come down and measure your boat or did you measure it and provide them with dimensions? I need a new mizzen sail and could stand to have a jib & 100% genoa. My main is still in good shape. It is fairly new. The last owner said that he blew out the old main during a storm off of Nicaragua in '95.

I had planned on taking next week off from work and finishing up the bulkhead and deck replacement with my father-in-laws help. The 5 day forecast here now has thunderstorms starting this afternoon with rain until next Monday. I may put off my vacation for another week and cross my fingers that next weekend will be clearer and will give me a longer stretch of fair weather.

S&B Engineers and Constructors, Ltd. 3535 Sage Road Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (713) 845-5421 Fax: (713) 640-8752 bgashenhart@sbec.com

-----Original Message----- From: AldenMon@aol.com [mailto:AldenMon@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:47 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Thanks-Big Time!

Bill, I just got your kind gift. I am so exited about all of the wonderful information on that sheet. Did you get it directly from Alden? This will be very helpful to me. If there is ever anything I can do to help your cause just ask.

Gratefully yours,

Don From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:47 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Thanks-Big Time!

Gratefully yours,

Don From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:30 AM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Re: The fun continues....

Bill, I have just ordered new sails from Ullman. I am sending out specs to get quotes on new rigging. Just refinished my wheel and coated it with Decs Ole. I am weary of doing the teak and am covering every thing I can with Snubbers canvas. What got me started with the "full Monty" (sp?) was that glass delamination thing. According to the guys at Boat Builders of Newport Beach Ca., who supplied me with my epoxy, was that the polyester resin use by Fuji didn't adhere well to the Luan mahogany ply my decks were built of. They may have just been blowing smoke to sell product. I have heard good things about Smiths epoxy. He is a local guy here in the bay area and must be a good sales person. Three folks on my dock use his products and say that if you talk to him personally you can't leave without buying something. Your plan to patch is sound in my opinion. Don't forget the old trick from chemistry 1. When you want to get water out of something, use alcohol. It mixes with water, evaporates and takes the water with it. Good luck.

Don From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Thursday, March 11, 1999 10:43 AM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: The fun continues....

Hi Don - I had someone send me an e-mail about the $22.9 K boat in Florida. They were going to look at it and wanted some direction about what to look for. I sent them a list of things to look at. I have a suspicion that it has significant deck problems but haven't heard back yet. Of course, it is also possible that the owner is just tired and wants to get rid of the boat like the previous owner of my boat did. Anyway, I've been busy the past couple of months performing my bulkhead and deck repairs. It is time consuming but nothing out of the capabilities of an average handyman ( or handy-person to be politically correct). The greatest problem has been that I am also busy at work so I get to work for 4 to 6 hours on Saturday and then have to close everything up and wait until the following weekend to resume. Some items I have been able to bring home and work on. I have been making numerous photos as I go. When I get through I will post a selected set showing the sequence of what I did along with a written list. If you have pictures of your repairs, I would like to post them on the web site. What I think I am going to do is put a page out there for every owner where I can place photos and descriptive text of their specific boat. If you have your own website then I will simply put a link to it. Your description of the repairs you performed was a great example of the type of info I would like to post. It provided significant information about both the possible problems and the strengths of the Fuji's. Additionally, in describing the modifications you made to the galley and fabricating a propane locker have given me ideas.

BUT - I am taking the week of March 22 to 26 off, my father-in-law is coming in to help and I plan on finishing this round of repairs. I AM READY TO GO SAILING!!!!!!!!

Questions - I have numerous cracks in the gelcoat / fiberglass deck along the rails on each side. Close inspection from the underside reveals no rot (yet!!). I am thinking of using a Dremel tool to open up the cracks and then injecting some of the Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. They claim that it will soak into the wood and stop any rot that may have started. I figure that as long as the deck isn't actually rotted then this should help seal the surface between the fiberglass and the mahogany plywood. What I am concerned about is that the fiberglass has delaminated from the plywood in some locations and I want to get it to re-adhere. I plan on then using West epoxy with fillers to fill the crack and smooth the surface. If there is any rot then I plan on pealing back the surface and replacing the plywood. Lots of fun. Any comments or hints on how to best seal the cracks.?

Again thanks for the info.

S&B Engineers and Constructors, Ltd. 3535 Sage Road Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (713) 845-5421 Fax: (713) 640-8752 bgashenhart@sbec.com

-----Original Message----- From: AldenMon@aol.com [mailto:AldenMon@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 1:46 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Dear Bill & Sue, Hello again. Just found a Fuji 32 for sail @ $22,900. E-mail: wellfound@aol.com. It's in the Florida edition of Sailboat Trader: traderonline.com. Found the data sheet, thanks. Here are some other links you may enjoy: <A HREF="http://www.boatowners.com/">Boat Owner's World, for Boating, Sailing, Fishing, Paddling and all other water</A> <A HREF="http://www.cruisingsailor.com/Default.htm">crusing sailor</A> <A HREF="http://www.boat2100.com/">Boat2100.com - Discount Boating Supplies </A>

Don Linowski From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 1:46 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Don Linowski From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 11:06 AM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Re: Sail plan

Bill, Thank you very much, that will be a great help. My address is:

Don Linowski 5320 Denver Ln Sebastopol, Ca 95472 From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Sunday, February 21, 1999 8:07 PM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: RE: Sail plan

Don - I have a good copy of the Alden sailplan which I can copy and snail mail to you. It has all of the sail dimensions. What is your address and I'll send you a copy.

Also, the luff, leach and foot dimensions are given on page 1 of the Fuji 35 owners manual which is on my WEB site.

S&B Engineers and Constructors, Ltd. 3535 Sage Road Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (713) 845-5421 Fax: (713) 640-8752 bgashenhart@sbec.com

-----Original Message----- From: AldenMon@aol.com [mailto:AldenMon@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, February 21, 1999 12:38 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Sail plan

Dear Bill & Sue,

Thank you for you last letter, I enjoyed it very much. I actually wrote you a lengthy letter on the spot but lost it in some hyper-glitch. Right now I am getting some quotes for new sails. My old originals are in tatters. I have an old photo copy of the original sail plan with all the sail options, sail areas etc., but it is illegible. Do you have a good copy or know of one? Is it on your site and I missed it? How is Swallow doing? I am really getting the hots for the upcoming season.

Sincerely,

Don Linowski From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 21, 1999 12:38 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Sail plan

Dear Bill & Sue,

Sincerely,

Don Linowski From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 2:00 PM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: FUJI repairs

Hi Don - Actually, I've been up to my eyebrows here at work and haven't had time to hardly think about my boat. I did get down last Sunday and started ripping out the bulkhead between the cabin and the cockpit. It was about 50% gone from rot where water had leaked in both at the teak to bulkhead joint and thru a crack which followed the bottom side of the teak eyebrow( or trim piece or whatever the 1" wide piece is called at the top of the cabin sides) I also took knife and probed the deck , cabin sides and cabin roof from the inside at every location I could find. I found no other rotted locations so I am hopeful. The previous owner had replaced all of the porthole with opening units. It looks like he also sealed the edges of the raw holes so that also looks good. I do have numerous cracks in the gelcoat so I will be using a Dremel tool to clean them out. I think I will inject something like Git-Rot or another thin epoxy into the routed cracks just to make sure that if there was a separation I want the fiberglass to rebond to the deck. I will then fill the cracks with a epoxy putty and paint. When I clean out the cracks, I find that water has gotten to the plywood then I will evaluate how much cover I will need to strip off in order to repair. Obviously I don't want to have to strip any of the deck cover off but if I must then I will do so. The logistics and labor doesn't scare me but I would prefer not to have to go the full Monte route like you had to do. My father in law said he would come down for a week or so and help me whenever I get ready to do the majority of the repairs.

The inside of my boat is painted wood between the varnished beams. Is it the same on your boat? You said that you had extensive damage to the cabin sides. Was the rot obvious or visible from the inside?

By the way, my home phone number is 713-781-8910 if you ever need to call me for anything.

Bill

S&B Engineers and Constructors, Ltd. 3535 Sage Road Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (713) 845-5421 Fax: (713) 640-8752 bgashenhart@sbec.com

-----Original Message----- From: AldenMon@aol.com [mailto:AldenMon@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 1:18 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Hi Bill, Did my last letter blow your mind? I hope I have not scared you off, I would really like to have a dialog with you. You seem as intense about your Fuji as me. I am very new to computing but am an expert on Fuji 35's. Drop me a line sometime. What do you think of my upgrade ideas? Still digging on your web site.

Later,

Don From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 1:18 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Later,

Don From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Friday, December 25, 1998 10:42 AM To: ditler@sdmaritime.com Cc: bgashenhart@sbec.com; DEEDORAZ@compuserve.com; DELINGRAVE@aol.com; Helsloots@aol.com; www.forrestd@access1.net; Moeshepard@aol.com; Bambooroom@aol.com; Arovinsky@aol.com; Smiley Shields; shields_sue@msmail.asd.k12.ak.usshields_suemsmail.asd.k12.ak.us; spinner@2xtreme.net; sharon@harpmusic.com Subject: (no subject)

MERRY CHRISTMAS DON LINOWSKI XOXOXOX From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Saturday, December 19, 1998 8:59 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: Re: Fuji 35 Sailboats

Bill,

Thank you so much for responding to my e-mail. First let me say that I am a novice at all things cyber, and am more comfortable with a wood plane in my hand than a mouse. I have only owned my computer for a month, which means my learning curve is very steep. I have some excellent photos of the major dry rot project, but don't have it together yet to scan and do the photo shop stuff yet.

It is odd to communicate with someone with a sistership, I feel an immediate kinship with you and I am more than willing to exchange any information I have that might help you with your vessel. The interior shots you have included on your web page are giving me some terrific ideas for new projects; ( as though I need a longer list of projects). My current one is to cut down the existing teak over hangs in the cockpit deck areas. By this I mean the deck areas that protrude about 1/2" in the horizontal plane past the vertical teak and fiberglass components of the cockpit area. I have cracked several of these areas just by stepping on them, and always have to tell guests not to step there. This overhang also creates a situation around the aft lazarette where I can't get even my skinniest sander to refinish the teak. And as you must know, keeping up on the teak is a monumental task in itself. { What do you use on your teak? I have tried about everything on and off the shelf but nothing lasts very long. The longest lasting product was Star Brite Tropical Teak Oil, but I didn't like the look. It is an acrylic with a teak-color stain which doesn't have that hand rubbed oil look or feel. It looks more like a cheap house stain. I have gone back to a real oil, Deks Ole, which is time consuming to keep up but looks good while it is there. The real trick seems to be to keep the sun off the teak, so I have had a lot of canvas made to protect the wood while the boat is at dockside.} So.... I am trimming back these overhangs with a little cordless circular saw and then a flush trim router. A problem this has created is in a few spots is, I have cut into some plywood core that was used in laying up the teak decks, and you guessed it, more rot. Well, I am not going to tear the cockpit apart, so I will dig out what I can from the edge, dry it out, and spline in some teak. If you have wood that is saturated with water and you want to dry it out prior to epoxy saturation, soak the area in isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol will mix with the water and will evaporate quicker than the water by itself. I use West epoxy, which is an excellent system. There are many types of thickeners you can add depending on what you want the final product to be like, different hardeners to control drying time, and thinners to increase saturation. The bulkhead between the cabin and cockpit is about the only place I have not torn into. The problem had started though, because the clear finished teak ply had begun to discolor, but had not yet turned soft. I painted it out white on the inside. I do hope you do not have as extensive a dryrot problem as I did, but consider the following as potential problem areas: Anywhere a fastener goes through a fiberglass skin into plywood. Anywhere a wire goes through same. Anywhere the fiberglass terminates into another material. I.E. All stanchions, deck cleats, the bolts and screws used in the bowsprit, the screws that attach the half round trim around the cabin, (I call this the rub rail), The screws that pass through the grab rails on the cabin top, the wire that serves the port and starboard running lights on the dorade boxes, (these run inside the dorades and snake through routed passages in the cabin sides, cabin top and bulkheads. My starboard light wire caused my entire starboard cabin side to rot out! Wait until you see the pictures). Also the dorade box attachment screws, and the point where the fiberglass terminates into the ports. ( I had rot around virtually every port). Many of these areas of damage were not obvious until I made the commitment to tear off all the glass over the plywood to be able to see what was underneath and hidden.

I know even thinking of this kind of stuff is making you sick. BEEN THERE. It is so much more fun contemplating far off secluded anchorages as the sun sinks slowly in the West. But in my case reality bumped big time into the dream. I also "low balled" the previous owner and thought I had made the proverbial sweet heart deal. The sad truth was, no one could have paid to do the work I have done on Tenacious. Like you said, ten grand to fix the bulkhead! And the same guys bedded in the screws, windows, and bowsprit on my boat as yours. So you may be pissed at me now for being the bearer of bad news, but please consider me a resource to help you solve any of these problems you may encounter.

There is an upside to all the work I have done. I know my vessel very well. I have upgraded many items that make the boat much better than the original. The opening ports for instance are a huge improvement. The port forward is especially nice when down below and under way. I have no leaks.

Here are some of the other upgrades I have done that have greatly improved the original design. In the galley, the door under the three drawers I turned into a large deep drawer that is vented from the bottom and is used for vegetable and fruit storage. The locker to the port side of the steering station is a totally enclosed, isolated, and properly drained, propane locker. There is enough room in this locker for one 5 gal. bottle one 2 1/2 gal. bottle, two 1 gal. fuel cans for the outboard, several of the small propane tanks used for my torch, a bottle of kerosene for my lamps, thinner, and teak oil. All potential explosive, combustible things, and they are all hidden out of sight. (No propane tanks on deck!) . I also have the Autohelm 5000. (We have so much in common.) I did not want to drill a bunch of holes in my beautiful wheel to mount that ugly black ring and clutch, so under the steering seat I built a plywood wheel around the steering shaft and mounted the black clutch ring to it. I needed to build a little short box over the area to clear the ply wheel, but this actually gives me better visibility at the steering station. The unit steers the boat flawlessly in all conditions. I access the clutch handle with a string and have the remote unit. Every thing but the little control box is all tucked away out of sight. I also developed some problems in the 5000 after six or seven years and as of three years ago it was still being supported by the manufacturer who had recently been bought out. They did a fine job rebuilding it for me and brought it up to spec for a reasonable price. If you have any more problems with yours call: Fred Fritz Electronics Inc. 707 762-9198 He is somewhat of a local hero here in the S.F. Bay area, does a lot of the warranty work for many of the retailers, and even fixes the Coast Guard stuff. He is a real master with marine electronics.

My refer was a mess. The ancient cooling unit looked like a prop for a shot in Frankenstien's Laboratory. It ran off a jack shaft from the engine and had an electric clutch. This meant the unit only ran while the engine was running. When you could still get Freon I used to buy it by the six pack to try and keep the thing filled. I could never fix all the leeks. I actually had it working and cold for two days straight on a trip to Catalina Island. I took such pleasure in throwing that contraption in the trash! I have used the boat's refer box as an ice box for the past six years and it has served me pretty well. What really bugged me about that set up was that fixed fiberglass shelf in the box. (I don't know if you have the original layout in your box.) Since this shelf was not removable for cleaning purposes there was an on going science experiment to grow unknown organic substances on the under side. I have purchased a Cold Machine by Adler Barbor which I will install when I get the time. I have cut out the old shelf, patched the area with West epoxy, and will put in a removable stainless shelf.

Another terrific addition to my gear is a deck wash down pump. I can pump salt water while at sea with the force of a good residential hose. Since I have an all chain rhode this is perfect to clean mud off the chain or to wash down the decks. I've installed a Simpson/Lawrace 555 anchor windless to crank the chain.

After a closer look at your photos I see your main does sheet to your bridge deck as does mine. This would seem to make for a small area for your dodger because of the swing of the sheet when off the wind. How does this work for you? I would really like to see some details of your dodger. Send them along if you find the time. (Soon I hope to learn how to send photos with e-mail.)

As you may be able to tell I am obsessed with my Fuji 35. I sail often alone, and have been up and down the California coast From San Diego to Bodega Bay above San Francisco. One trip was solo to Santa Barbara and back. One of these days I will have a cruising fund and be able to sail off into the sunset. Feel free to add me to your web page. I hope I can be of some help to you with your project, you have already been a help to me and my dreams.

Don Hull # 60 TENACIOUS From: Ashenhart, Bill Sent: Friday, December 18, 1998 3:43 PM To: 'AldenMon@aol.com' Subject: Fuji 35 Sailboats

Don -

I was glad to receive your e-mail. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond but this week at work has been one of those where I feel like all I've been doing is chasing my tail.

Since I have hull #61, it sounds as though our boats came off the assembly line side-by-side. I would expect them to have similar strengths and weaknesses. So far, the only major delamination appears to be in the bulkhead between the cabin and cockpit and on the port side deck by the gate in the lifelines. I am going to start tearing out this entire area in the next month and replace the plywood. I had a local boat carpenter look at it for about 5 minutes and he said that it would cost around $10,000 for the repairs. I sure can't afford him!!

I have traced a leakage point which caused the cabin bulkhead between the cockpit and the cabin to rot out. It appears that when FUJI built my boat, the entire cockpit, including the side decks, was constructed from a single formed fiberglass piece which was then set down into the hull and bolted to the hull flange. The teak in the cockpit was then glued and/or screwed down. From the cabin bulkhead forward, the deck and cabin were constructed from plywood and solid teak using traditional deck beam construction. Where the fiberglass on the outside of cabin met the cockpit fiberglass, they simply butted the two pieces together in a corner joint but didn't actually join them with any fiberglass. Fuji then laid the teak deck in the cockpit with a lot of polysulfide seam sealant. The seam sealant at the joint butted up against the cabin failed and allowed water leak thru this joint. This water leakage caused the plywood bulkhead to start rotting / delaminating. Also , I have some delamination in my deck where the life line stanchions have cracked the fiberglass cover and allowed water to infiltrate the plywood deck core.

I do have cracks in my gelcoat in other random locations on the boat. I am crossing my fingers that I can simply use a Dremel tool and clean out a 1/8" to 1/4" wide groove for the length of each crack. I will then try to inject Git-Rot or some other similar thin epoxy resin to rebond any delamination in those areas , fill the grove with epoxy filler , sand and then repaint. I know that I hoping for a best case by doing this but I really don't want to strip off the entire fiberglass skin and then recover everything like you had to do. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best. If I do have a severe problem and need to replace the skin then I will probably end up pulling the boat from the water and have it trucked to someplace closer to my house where it will be easier to work on. I live about an hour from the Marina so it is not easy to simply pop over for an hours worth of repairs after getting off work.

If you have any specific tips about rebuilding the deck house or pictures of how the hidden joints are formed I would like to see them. I think that Fuji cut steps or ledges in the corner beams for the cabin sides to sit in. The deck appears to be traditional beam-carlin type construction. Any thing you can help me with would be appreciated.

If you don't mind, I would like to place your name on my web page under the owners list. It is gradually growing as I discover more and more owners of these beautiful ladies.

Again, I glad to hear from you and maybe we will see each other someday. If you ever get down in this area please give me a call. My home phone is 713-781-8910.

If you know of any other FUJI owners or have any additional FUJI info then please let me know.

S&B Engineers and Constructors, Ltd. 3535 Sage Road Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (713) 845-5421 Fax: (713) 640-8752 bgashenhart@sbec.com

-----Original Message----- From: AldenMon@aol.com [mailto:AldenMon@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 1998 8:10 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)

Bill: My name is Don Linowski and I own the Fuji 35 # 60. You sure know how to keep a guy up all night, I just found your web site! I just signed in last night and left you a little note. I have just begun to read all the wonderful info you have gathered. When I bought my boat 10 yrs. ago it also had all those little cracks every where. I also had dry rot in the starboard cabin side. And everywhere a chainplate went through the deck, or a stanchion was mounted, or a port was, or where the bowsprit was,(like the whole foredeck), was more rot. The cabin side was bad for like 8ft. , and I thought right, "a little epoxy here, a little get rot there." But I am also a professional woodworker/ships carpenter. I always told my clients to "cut out the cancer until you find good wood then replace what is gone." It was really difficult to follow my own advice, bite the bullet, and do it. But I did, and it was a hellish job even with all my experience. I basically took the boat apart, removing hatch coamings, grab rails, rub rails, bow sprit, stanchions, ports, dorade boxes, and removed all the old glass. It seemed that all this stuff had been bedded poorly, and the strbd. running light wire was leaking, causing massive dry rot in the cabin trunk. It was really easy to remove the old glass which was kind of scary. It should have been stuck down better! As it was explained to me, the polyester resin used does not stick well to Luan plywood, accounting for all the funkiness. But I was committed, or should have been committed (as in institutionalized), and besides I had named the boat "Tenacious". Anyway.......15gal. of epoxy, many yds. of matt and cloth, and lots of wood work later, I created the bullet proof deck and cabin. Then I had to put it all back together. I never liked the closed ports so I splurged on opening bronze ports,( including one on the forward end of the cabin trunk, and large ones in the galley). It was a huge project but after 10 yrs. , I have never been sorry. Your web page is exceptional. I know it'll be a blast checkin' it out. I plan to put a dodger on "Tenacious", and I figured I will have to move the mainsheet traveler to the cabin top(coach roof). This means I will need to find or fabricate a "box" over my main hatch. Do you know where I could find one, and the accompanying "bridge" over it for my traveler? Building them would be tricky and expensive. You have my permission to put me on your home page. I'll be sending you more boating adventures in the future, like my encounter with the 22ft. Great White off of Big Sur. DAH..DAH.......DAH,DAH,DAH......... Meanwhile, hope to hear from you.

Don From: AldenMon@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 1998 8:10 PM To: bgashenhart@sbec.com Subject: (no subject)